||Good Hair - the Paradox||

So - I have been inspired by Chris Rock's new documentary - "Good Hair" that's coming out this weekend. Of course, we have had this discussion before, but watching the View today made me realize - that there are a lot of people who don't quite understand the issue of "Black" hair. Barbara Walters brought out the fact that she always thought Black people got perms because they wanted to look like White people. I found that intriguing. So I set out to do some quick research on the matter, and of course - opinions will vary greatly. I just want to know where our hair culture is coming from, where it is now, and what's to come in the future. Let's start with history. ((I think the info is best left in its original form, so I will simply quote and include my thoughts as well)) It all started in Africa...

Via "A Beautiful Hair Affair":

"In the early fifteenth century, hair served as a carrier of messages in most West African societies (Tharps and Byrd 2001) These Africans--citizens from the Mende, Wolof, Yoruba, and Mandingo were all transported to the New World on slave ships. Within these communities, hair often communicated age, marital status, ethnic identity, religion, wealth, and rank in the community. Hairstyles could also be used to identify a geographic region. For example, in the Wolof culture of Senegal, young girls partially shaved their hair as an outward symbol that they were not courting (1). And the Karamo people of Nigeria, for example, were recognized for their unique coiffure a shaved head with a single tuft of hair left on top. (1) Likewise, widowed women would stop attending to their hair during their period of mourning so they wouldn't look attractive to other men. And as far as community leaders were concerned, they donned elaborate hairstyles. And the royalty would often wear a hat or headpiece, as a symbol of their stature."


Timeline of Transition and Change...

Via Long Hair Care Forum:

"1444: Europeans trade on the West Coast of Africa with people wearing elaborate hairstyles, including locks, plaits and twists.
1619: First slaves brought to Jamestown; African language, culture and grooming tradition begin to disappear.
1700s: Calling black hair "wool," many whites dehumanize slaves. The more elaborate African hairstyles cannot be retained.


1800s: Without the combs and herbal treatments used in Africa, slaves rely on bacon grease, butter and kerosene as hair conditioners and cleaners. Lighter-skinned, straight-haired slaves command higher prices at auction than darker, more kinky-haired ones. Internalizing color consciousness, blacks promote the idea that blacks with dark skin and kinky hair are less attractive and worth less.

1865: Slavery ends, but whites look upon black women who style their hair like white women as well-adjusted. "Good" hair becomes a prerequisite for entering certain schools, churches, social groups and business networks.

1880: Metal hot combs, invented in 1845 by the French, are readily available in the United States. The comb is heated and used to press and temporarily straighten kinky hair.

1900s: Madame C.J. Walker develops a range of hair-care products for black hair. She popularizes the press-and-curl style. Some criticize her for encouraging black women to look white.

1910: Walker is featured in the Guinness Book of Records as the first American female self-made millionaire.

1920s: Marcus Garvey, a black nationalist, urges followers to embrace their natural hair and reclaim an African aesthetic.

1954: George E. Johnson launches the Johnson Products Company with Ultra Wave Hair Culture, a "permanent" hair straightener for men that can be applied at home. A women's chemical straightener follows.

1963: Actress Cicely Tyson wears cornrows on the television drama "East Side/West Side."

1966: Model Pat Evans defies both black and white standards of beauty and shaves her head. 1968: Actress Diahann Carroll is the first black woman to star in a television network series, "Julia." She is a darker version of the all-American girl, with straightened, curled hair.

1970: Angela Davis becomes an icon of Black Power with her large Afro.

1971: Melba Tolliver is fired from the ABC affiliate in New York for wearing an Afro while covering Tricia Nixon's wedding.

1977: The Jheri curl explodes on the black hair scene. Billed as a curly perm for blacks, the ultra moist hairstyle lasts through the 1980s.

1979: Braids and beads cross the color line when Bo Derek appears with cornrows in the movie "10."

1980: Model-actress Grace Jones sports her trademark flattop fade.

1988: Spike Lee exposes the good hair/bad hair light-skinned/dark-skinned schism in black America in his movie "School Daze."

1990: "Sisters love the weave," Essence magazine declares. A variety of natural styles and locks also become more accepted.

1997: Singer Erykah Badu poses on the cover of her debut album "Baduizm" with her head wrapped, ushering in an eclectic brand of Afrocentrism.

1998: Carson Inc., creator of Dark & Lovely and Magic Shave for black men, acquires black-owned beauty company Johnson Products of Chicago in 1998. L'Oreal purchases Carson two years later and merges it with Soft Sheen.

1999: People magazine names lock-topped Grammy award-winning artist Lauryn Hill one of its 50 Most Beautiful People.

2001: Rapper Lil' Kim wears a platinum blonde weave, while singer Macy Gray sports a new-school Afro. Some black women perm, some press, others go with natural twists, braids and locks.

2006: Black hair care is a billion-dollar industry. "













































I was drawn to the issue because I'm going through a transitional period with my hair right now. I have been perm-free for three years, but I have battled with what exactly I want to do with it. I've done it all - the first few months after I chopped my permed hair off, I texturized it. I didn't like it, so I cut it off again. I weaved it for a while, then I decided to let my soul glow and leave the fro out. Then I was flat-ironing it daily for the straight look, but humidity was killing me! So I went back to weaves. The cycle continues. Hearing Barbara Walter's statement struck a chord for me. I realize, a lot of my white counterparts don't really understand the issues that we have as "ethnic people" with our hair. I have a co-worker who will come to work with wet hair, and by the time an hour passes, it's dry and in a cute bob. I could never try that. I used to - but I'd have to put so many products in it before I walked out of the house - it was too much of a hassle. I have white people who like to touch my hair, some who say "I wish my hair would do that," of course, we know they don't - but it's funny nonetheless. Then again, I can't say they wouldn't want kinky hair - cuz 'reverse perms' are raging in Japan right now.















To answer Barbara's statement in my own words - straightening my hair was never about trying to look white. In elementary school, there were about two white kids that I could count. Nobody paid attention to the fact that they were white, and we damn sure weren't worried about their hair. I asked my Mom for a perm at the age of nine - because I was tired of the hour that it took in the morning to wet my hair, comb it out - plait it up and put hairclips in it. I wanted to be able to comb it into a nice, simple ponytail and go about my business. My desire for a solution ended up being the problem. Once I got comfortable with having my hair in a ponytail - that's all I would do. Eventually my hair broke off, and was never quite the same again. Perms do that sometimes. That being said, Barbara continued on to say that she didn't understand why we got perms, knowing that they burn our scalps and whatnot. I couldn't help but sense a tinge of ignorance, because Barbara is white - and she should know and understand that white people get perms, too! Curly-haired white people often get straight perms because their hair is unmanageable. Straight-haired white people often get "curly perms" to add body to their hair. Does she not know this? It has little to do with them wanting to look Black, either. It's mostly about style preference and manageability.

I know there are people who are self-conscious about their hair, and that's where the word "Good Hair" resurfaces. I remember going to a former friend's mother's salon to get my hair done for prom (after going natural). She was washing my hair in the sink and said to me, "Girl, you've got good hair - why were you getting perms?" I could never understand this, but now as I sit back and analyze - I get it now. People consider "good hair" as those with certain textures. Hair that waves up when brushed wet, hair that has a certain curl pattern when it dries, hair with sheen to it. My parents blessed us with "soft hair," as I like to call it. It's somewhat course, but soft enough to comb through and apply water to. Some people have extremely course hair that is impermeable to water, absorbs all oils and products, and is super hard to comb. Those people are considered to have "bad hair," or "nappy hair." I think it's just misunderstood hair. Anyone with the proper knowledge can transform their hair into the way they want it. Whether you perm or keep it natural, good hair is hair that is healthy. Good hair is moisturized, well maintained, and happy. It doesn't have to be long or wavy to be good. I have seen some beautiful afros from women with course hair, they have mastered the art of taking care of it.


My household is full of afros. My parents rocked them back in the day in Jamaica, too. Mom used to tell me stories about how she wrecked the good forks at home, because they couldn't afford a hot-comb. She used to heat the fork on the stove and curl her hair for special occasions, and the forks would get bent sometimes. Grandma would have a fit! And she didn't do it to look like any of the white girls in school - she did it to look cute and be in style. This was back in the day when Carol's Daughter and Mixed Chicks didn't exist, so women were forced to make due with what they had. Now that we are blessed with products that can help us - I see a natural revolution starting all over again. Now, don't get me wrong - I don't knock perms. When properly taken care of, women can have healthy, long, beautiful hair with the aid of relaxers. I spent a large majority of my teenaged life with perms, and my hair was great. I think that the wear and tear of a busy life, combined with the perm is what truly wrecked my hair back then. I know girls who had wash and sets weekly, deep conditioning every month, all that - and their hair looked great. I was a tomboy - I had soccer practice, choir rehearsal, work, and school to deal with - I didn't have time for that! Going natural was as simple as getting my hair braided every two weeks, or rockin my afro or ponytail. Why didn't I think of this sooner?



The emergence of weaves was a breakthrough in my world. It was taboo initially to wear, especially in high school. Girls would try to pretend the hair belonged to them, until it got down to it, and the guys would feel for tracks, or the wind would blow - or a fight would break out and extensions would be on the floor. Eventually, though - it became the norm - who could get the best weave? Pound hair is still the best kept secret. Confidential locations where you can't see inside - custom made colors that are hand-sewn on site. Women pay top dollar for these luxuries, just to look good. I can't lie - I feed into these things on occasion. I'll pay $60 for some hair that'll last me a few months. Some people spend money on plastic surgery and botox - us young black women pay top dollar for hair. It's a societal thing, I suppose - but then again - didn't Paris Hilton make weaves the standard for young white women? In essence, it's the same story - different books.


In any form, the ultimate goal should be healthy hair - in order to add to one's beauty. I think people obsess over hair, because they are concerned with how they look too much. The first time I had to cut my hair short - I was devastated. I thought I wasn't going to look good, because my hair was about an inch long. I got over it in about an hour. If everyone could encourage each other, uplift each other, and bring positive vibes to one another - we wouldn't concern ourselves so much about the little things - like hair. You can have the longest, silkiest, strongest hair in the world, but a negative attitude and narcissistic tendencies will trump that - and you still won't get the attention you seek. Confidence is key, no matter what kind of hair you have. If we'd never seen a before picture of Amber rose - would we know what texture her hair was? No! We'd just know she's hot. And she is. If your head is held high - your hair comes second. I'm going to find out the showing information for the "Good Hair" documentary, so I can go further into the topic.

Nap time (No pun intended) for now - this insomniac is exhausted!!